Joy Of Writing With A Fountain Pen

Ten Ten Ten

I wonder wonder wonder when

My pencil will become a pen !

Ten Ten Ten

It is a little known nursery rhyme, that I first heard long time after I had discovered the joy of writing with a fountain pen. The verses very aptly describe the thrill a ten year old felt when graduating from a pencil to pen. In our school it was going to the sixth standard (or sixth grade) that gave you the privilege of using a pen.

It was an event to look forward to , to own a pen. In Madras, in those days, the first pen for most students used to be a brand called ‘Writer’ ; Camlin and Pilot were the more advanced ones. Ball point pens were yet to become popular and gel pens of course were totally unknown.

Ball pens were difficult to write with and teachers were convinced that it was the sure-shot method to spoil your handwriting. So the only option was fountain pen with its cap, nib, neck and barrel. I spell out the parts as we were as conversant with the parts as  the whole. We could even buy nib separately as just one fall was enough to break a good nib and there were many nib-breaking, heart-breaking, falls in a student’s life.

There is whole world of the fountain pen culture that is now almost extinct. If I were a celebrity, I would start a “Save Fountain Pen” campaign.

There used to be a brand called “President” that was thick and had a huge barrel . The barrel could take twice or thrice the quantity of ink that a normal pen could take. A friend of mine used to carry this pen along with a slim one and joke ” one is for writing and the other is a portable ink pot” . So it was !

Then came self filler pens that could suck ink from the pot avoiding the messy process of opening the barrel and filling with an ink filler. Unfortunately these pens could hold hardly  half a ml of ink , good enough for signatures but not for the volume of work a student goes through.

Whatever pen we used a student could  always be identified with ink stains all over. Index finger and the middle finger bore the brunt , though ink stains could be spotted just about anywhere; in the corners of shirt pockets,on desk-tops (due to frequent jerking of the pen to initiate the ink-flow) satchels, and sometimes on the face or lips. Students were always close to ink and ink to students.

नलायक बालक का बस्ता भारी होती है
और हाथ स्याही से काली होती है

(Northies, pardon me for any spelling mistake in my hindi)

There was a great excitement about using a new pen. Even today I feel it. There is a process of breaking in a new pen and every piece was  different and every user was different. It is the process of tuning the user to the pen to ensure the smooth flow of ink and  when the tuning is correct , the pen just glides on the paper and it is absolutely bliss. Some people use a glass to write on applying the right pressure to widen the split in the nib.

One pen, one user was the norm. That is one reason that a fountain pen lover swears by Shakespeare’s “Neither borrower nor  a lender be thee”

While a pen is never borrowed , ink borrowing is an art by itself; can’t really be called borrowing as it is never returned. Hardly anybody had an extra pen , leave alone the bunch of pens a school kid carries these days.

At a critical juncture, say, during an examination, one may run out of ink. There is a frantic jerking of pen to squeeze out the last micro-drop of ink. Then you look around for a good Samaritan for rescue. Everyone is busy writing furiously, with one eye on the clock and the other on the answer-sheet  (or may be neighbor’s answer-sheet). Then you find a friendly soul; there is no time for opening the neck of the pen and to do a barrel to barrel transfer; so, air to air re-fueling ensues. The donor just unscrews the neck of the a pen partially and screws it back for a nib to nib transfer of a few drops. A grateful smile  follows ; that should help in completing the answer-sheet; way to bond specially in boarding schools.

These days we hardly see anyone using fountain pens. I do have a small collection , but I miss the range of colours ; there were many brands, Bril, Camel, Quink, Chelpark, Parker etc. Today we have just Camlin and Parker and only Black and Blue in most places.

Recently I had been to Coimbatore and was sauntering along the footpath leisurely. I spotted a tiny  hole in the wall kind of shop with the  board “Pen House”  .I stopped to ask for Turquoise blue ink.

 

The shopkeeper’s eyes lit up; he said, though he did not have one at that moment, he could produce one in ten minutes. He was true to his word, he  produced ink of eight colors; Royal Blue , Black, Blue black, Red, Green, Turquoise blue, Violet and Crimson. Voila ! Jackpot. The ink was manufactured by Daytone and was sold in plastic containers like the ones used for eye-drops or ear drops , though much larger. Later I learnt that the item was manufactured at Indore , about 20km from where I live!

The friendly shopkeeper, asked me what kind of pens I used, self-filler type or the tank type. When I said, the tank type, he was absolutely thrilled. He took out boxes and boxes of vintage pens from the 50s and 60s and also a whole range of expensive pens price ranging from Rs 2000 – Rs 5000.  I bought a modestly priced pen of 1951 Model. I don’t think he earned much from that shop , but sure he was excited talking about pens past and present. May his tribe increase.

On my return to Mhow , one of the first things I did was to fill up Turquoise blue ink in the 1951 model pen .

 

Lifting and Leaning

These are some verses  by the popular poet ‘anonymous’ I came across long before WhatsApp university came into being.  Later I came to know from the net that the poem is attributed to Ella Wheeler Wilcox.

Lifting and Leaning

There are two kinds of people on earth today,
Just two kinds of people, no more, I say.

Not the good and the bad, for ’tis well understood
The good are half bad and the bad are half good.

Not the happy and sad, for the swift-flying years
Brings each man his laughter and each man his tears.

Not the rich and the poor, for to count a man’s wealth
You must first know the state of his conscience and health.

Not the humble and proud, for in life’s busy span
He who puts on vain airs is not counted a man.

No! The two kinds of people on earth I mean
Are the people who lift and the people who lean.

Wherever you go you will find the world’s masses
Are ever divided in just two classes.

And, strangely enough, you will find, too, I ween,
There is only one lifter to twenty who lean.

In which class are you? Are you easing the load
Of overtaxed lifters who toil down the road?

Or are you a leaner who lets others bear
Your portion of worry and labor and care?

The poet come out with the ratio of 1:20; in the management studies , there is a saying that in any organization , 80 percent of the work is done by 20 percent of people; for those arithmetically challenged , the ratio is one lifter to four leaners. It is only the ratio one can haggle about, not the fact that there are more leaners in this world than lifters.

Today the division between lifters and learners is more pronounced than ever before. The poem is more figurative than literal, but someone, hale and hearty,  who cannot lift his own brief-case can’t be expected take on any kind of   load of the family or society he is part of. Can he be ?

Whenever I spend some time in the airport I never fail to notice that we have a class of people who simply do not want to lift or worse still, do not want to be seen lifting anything heavier than a food tray with a coke and a hamburger.

Micro suitcases have mega wheels and wheelchairs are  ubiquitous.

Yes, we need to provide mobility to temporarily or permanently  disabled and the elderly; but why are these wheel chairs not available at Railway Stations.?When I badly wanted a wheel chair at a Railway Station, I had to collect one from the Station Master’s office after depositing my original Identity Card. Later I had to retrieve my identity card after returning the wheel chair. Of course, at Railway Stations you need to pay the porters for theses services while at the airport, they are free; because air-travellers are entitled ‘ Leaners’.

Wheels , Wheels Everywhere

Another place I see the stark division of the two classes is in Hospitals. The hospitals are designed on the lines of five star hotels. In one of the leading hospitals, I noticed over 10 different classes of wards from the shared ward  for about 2500/ per day to VIP suite for Rs 25000/ per day.

After all everybody needs help at times and has to be wheeled around by his fellow-citizens; but how is it that almost every one who is serving is malnourished and the one who is being served is obese?

What happens to those arms that have stopped lifting any load ; and those legs that have stopped walking beyond the distance from their cars to the nearest building? The fat deposits increase and the  muscles start wasting away and presto ! we do have a solution for that ! Just drive down to a physiotherapist and start a scientifically designed work out on how to regain the strength of these muscles; surprise ! surprise ! ….. that is done by lifting weights that members of this elite class scrupulously avoid in their day to day life. And they walk on treadmills to exercise their ‘unwalking ‘ legs!

Welcome to the Brave New World!

Anti social Media : Siva Vaidhyanathan

The title, ” Anti social media” tells it all. Whatever is ambiguous in the title is clarified in the byline; How Facebook disconnects us and undermines democracy.

Marc Zuckerberg’s stated aim is to make the world more open and connected rather to be obsessed with revenue and profits.

That was as per a letter written in 2012 at the time of IPO of the company.  The letter ends with the words as follows:-

 

………Once again, Facebook exists to make the world more open and connected, and not just to build a company. We expect everyone at Facebook to focus every day on how to build real value for the world in everything they do……

Seven years down the line, exactly the opposite has happened. Facebook along with WhatsApp that was acquired by Facebook later is one of the main causes for the polarized world we live in today.

A media that would induce anti social behaviour should rightly be called anti-social media ..and we call it social media.

A blurb from the back cover of the book:-

If you want to build a machine that would distribute propaganda to millions of people, distract them from important issues, energize hatred and bigotry, erode social trust, undermine respectable journalism, foster doubts about science, engage in massive surveillance all at once, you would make something a lot like Facebook. Of course, none of that was part of the plan.

The author calls Zuckerberg a deeply thoughtful, sincere, idealistic, and concerned person, rather than a manipulative and uncaring corporate demon. He feels that Zuckerberg lacks the education to understand nuances and the ability to figure out how people would react to his products.

The book is full of stories of silicon valley start-ups  involved in the process of feeding the beast called social media. Start-ups focus on a specific aspect of technology, grow into big companies or get swallowed by the big companies.

Those who have followed the Seattle start ups would be aware of this phenomenon. A small company called Keyhole , with 40 employees, that provided web served maps was struggling to stay afloat . It was bought up by Google and today you have Google Maps dominating the market.

It is the big guys who decide which start-ups would survive and what directions the world of technology should take.  The big five today are Facebook, Alphabet (the holding company for Google), Microsoft, Amazon, and Apple.

An excerpt ..

………….If the five biggest technology companies in the world fulfill their wishes, they will sell us a series of devices, each promising to make our daily tasks a little bit more convenient.

These devices would monitor us without our direct interaction. They would capture our intentions and desires at those few moments when we are not staring at screens and typing on keyboards. Some of these devices sit on our counters. Others are embedded in our cars. Some are built into our thermostats and appliances. Others sit on our skin………………..

After the introduction, the author goes on to list the varied of roles played by social media in general and Facebook in particular.

Pleasure Machine.

It is a pleasure Machine. It consistently gives small doses of pleasure, as can be seen from people smiling or laughing caressing their mobile screen ; ask them after a few minutes as to what made them smile and it is most likely that they  would have  nothing to recall. It is just a series of stories flashing by to kill time, to kill boredom.

Surveillance Mach

This has become the major role of Facebook. The author says Sheryl Sandberg who brought the idea of targeted advertising from Google to Facebook, made a great impact on the way Facebook collected and compiled personal information. Ostensibly, the info was voluntarily given by the users so as to get the kind of contents they would like to receive or for the information of their ‘friends’. In reality people end up sharing all kinds of inputs that they are not even aware that they are sharing. Beware of the applications advising you to log through Facebook. Does anyone stop to wonder as to how a Mutual Fund Portal could be accessible through Google or Facebook. Obviously, they are sharing your details. Of course, the user voluntarily uses Facebook to login, elsewhere.

One unfortunate fall out of Social Media is what is called ‘Revenge porn‘ . It is something that happens when friends don’t remain friends .

Every activity of the user is monitored by the system, including the time one wakes up, her mode of travel, places visited , food habits, friends, enemies and frenimies, spending habits, opinions on major and minor issues ; the list is endless. what was called Panopticon in the pre-social media days is now called cryptopticon. Keep everyone under observation 24 x 7 through digital footprints or finger prints.

FB builds a rich personal dossier, probably including such stuff that even you are not aware.

Attention machine

Facebook scrambles the commercial and the social messages. All kinds of new media or entertainment media compete for attention of people in a world where the attention span is getting shorter and shorter.

The stories from SM also should make us cautious because they signal to other news and entertainment outlets that one should—or must—pander to Facebook to succeed in a shrinking market for advertising revenue and a crowded supply of attention-seeking destinations. Not only do the Guardian, El País, and Haaretz all compete with Huff Post, Breitbart, and the New York Times for space and frequency on Facebook News Feeds, they also compete with YouTube videos, games, music, podcasts, and hundreds of other diversions in daily life – all of them more and more precisely engineered to hook us and keep us coming back.

Nobody goes to Facebook to read news , but many end up doing exactly that.; that too one sided news, designed and delivered to the target audiences ,that is you.

Benevolent machine

Facebook started the Internet.org called free basics in India. Ostensibly, keeping with the Founder’s letter of 2012, quoted above,  free bsics aimed at empowerment of people.

We believe building tools to help people share can bring a more honest and transparent dialogue around government that could lead to more direct empowerment of people, more accountability for officials and better solutions to some of the biggest problems of our time.

 

When the “Arab Spring” erupted in 2010, the western media cheered the social media . They looked at Facebook and WhatsApp as harbinger of democracy. As events unfolded , the so called ‘Arab Spring’ only ended up transferring power from one oppressor to the other.

When Donald Trump got elected , the same Social Media was accused as a tool for manipulation of electors’ minds . Kamala Harris , like many democrats, accuse the Russians for manipulating the electoral process. She also acknowledges the existence of fault lines in US Socio-economic system that could be exploited through social media.

Author’s conclusions are not very convincing. He suggests that the monster called Facebook be regulated by Govts.  It is only a dictatorial govt like the communist China that can ban Facebook. But the void is filled by something like WeChat that is even more powerful and totally under control of the Govt.

It is not just ‘fascist govts’ that use Social media to manipulate, it is the so called liberals themselves who are guilty of spreading  fake stories or disseminating  their bias and  prejudices.  

When Obama campaign used the Net, the ‘liberal’ world applauded , but when Trump Campaign did that , they cried foul. Of course a point to note is that the golden period of blogs  roughly “2002-2007” was way different from Facebook and Whatsapp era. To read or write , one needs to think. Forwarding is done better when one is on a “high” , may be LSD or may be anger or hatred.

In my mind, it is only individuals who can choose to stay away from Social Media to preserve their sanity, can make an impact. After all when one can avoid legally permitted addictions like tobacco and marijuana why can’t one avoid excessive activities on Social Media ?

Bhutan : The Land of Happiness Part 6

 

Senagers (sixty plus teenagers) can be very cautious in planning and even more cautious in execution. Our preparations for Taktsang trek was no less than what goes into planning  for the  final assault on the summit  on a mountaineering expedition  . The entire team was totally  involved in the choice of rig and kit for the summiteers  ie Vandana and yours truly.  A number of options were considered and rejected before homing on to a bag of  just the right size, weight , capacity and  ease of carrying .

Every item that had to go into that bag was carefully deliberated upon. Of course everything revolved around protective clothing, food, drink and medicines.

On hindsight, it appears absolutely natural that with a physician and a nutritionist in the group, one could never be overstocked with food and medicines. Let’s not  forget that two of us were moms. There were  energy giving peppermints that also kept your mouth from drying. We actually carried ORS. With likely rains and cool temperature, there was  little chance of  dehydration on a 3-4 hour climb. We knew it, but why take a chance ?

On sage advice from the nutrition expert and fellow summiteer,  I had to discard my favourite , ultra-lightweight, windcheater for a heavier , waterproof jacket .
With the kind of situations we were anticipating and catering for, I began to doubt if we would even take off; after all , guest rooms and shopping malls were definitely safer than valleys and hills.
By five in the morning , I was fully awake. A cursory look at the sky indicated a rainy day; I could see dark clouds hovering around. Well, the weather in the mountains is always difficult to predict. By seven, the weather god started smiling,  and it started clearing up. We started around 7 :30 for the base of the monastery which was about a half an hour drive. The place was bustling with activity.  A photograph of the entire expedition team was in order.

 

A look at the top was definitely intimidating;

 

It’s always so. But as an infantryman used to measuring the world with his own  foot steps, I was well aware that the simple formula to reach  any place is “put one foot ahead of the other, and keep doing it till you reach where-ever you have to reach“  . One step is not difficult. I  was humming along the tune “जो राह चुनी तुने, उसी राह पे राही चलते जाना रे“

 

These days there’s much talk of last mile connectivity for metro trains in Delhi and NCR.  What last mile connectivity !? The govt just needs to provide a walk-able path to the Train Stations. Improvement in health, no need to spend time and money on Gym, less pollution, easy on domestic budget and easy on Govt fiscal deficit; It is one idea  that kills too many birds with one stone. You just need to invest in a pair of walking shoes and may be an umbrella , and yes, a bag large enough to carry a pair of formal shoes.

 

That’s gross digression!

 When you are  on a steep climb,  it is difficult to talk or to sing , but mind wanders all over, effortlessly , even while a part of the mind is tuned to the rhythm of your breath. A tip for casual trekkers; whether you  go faster or slower does not matter, try to keep your breathing even . It is uneven breathing that really tires you.

 

I looked around the fellow climbers; there were very young and very old among them. There was a little girl merrily counting the steps as she went along. It looked like she was feeling more elated with her ability to count than in running up the slope  effortlessly.
Photos : Vandana
We reached the half way mark, the Cafeteria, after about an hour’s climb.  This is the place where half the people are tempted to turn around and the other half get the confidence to reach the top. We were among the second half. Looking back at the distance we had covered,  reaching the top definitely looked doable.
Photos : Vandana
An hour and a half climb left: Photos: Vandana

After another hour or so , we reached a place from where there was sheer drop followed by a steep climb ; a V shaped course   with steps constructed on the rocky mountain. It also turned out to be full of selfie spots and people moved along rather slowly.

Almost there .

By about 11 , ie in two and a half hours we reached the shrine. We produced our entry tickets and after making the necessary entries, got a locker to keep our bags.

There was a guide, who took us around. As most of the monasteries are, the place is full of idols of Bodhisattva  dressed in colorful clothes and the walls are covered with paintings of images depicting various aspects of Vajrayana Buddhism. The main cave is entered through a narrow passage. The dark cave houses a dozen images of Bodhisattva and butter lamps flicker in front of these idols. An elegant image of Chenrezig(Avalokitesvara) is also deified here.

We commenced our trek back around 12. The return journey starts with a sheer drop and a stiff climb and later it is all downhill.

Here we could get the network to talk to Viji. Our support team from IMTRAT were worried and was all set to send a rescue party. They were pleasantly surprised to learn that we were ahead of schedule and were already on our way back.

The way back was relaxed. Vandana was in full spirits singing away to glory. It brought a lot of smiles on the climbers on their way to the monastery and one of them even stopped to record a video. A couple stopped for a selfie with us .
Sure, she motivated a lot of young people to reach the top.

A cup of coffee on the way back . Selfie by Vandana

At the half way mark, cafeteria, we stopped for a cup of coffee. It was a longish break . While climbing down one just needs to be careful not to slip or sprain a knee or ankle. At the base our vehicle was waiting and the driver was there to welcome us with drinking water and fruit juice.

 

 

So, as I had mentioned earlier in Part 1, the whole universe conspired to make this trip of ours fruitful. A trek that almost became as a non starter turned out to be an easy ,  pleasant and a memorable event.

PS

Bhutan is a unique country that gives importance to Health and Happiness over Money and Development, at least,  that is the official stance.

Any write up about Bhutan would be  incomplete without a discussion on Happiness. That’s the topic for the next post

Bhutan : The Land of Happiness Part 5

Paro Valley is simply beautiful and full credit to the Bhutanese Govt for not letting the airport affect the natural beauty of the Valley. The airport itself is designed  , keeping with the Bhutanese culture.

The paddy fields surrounding the airfield are left untouched and modern constructions blend with the nature, picturesquely.

Paro Valley . Photo . Vandana

We were to start early from Haa for Paro on the 8th, but our departure time had to be rescheduled due to a pleasant surprise; an  invitation from the Commandant IMTRAT for breakfast.

Haa Valley. Photo . Vandana
Haa : Special Prayers. Photo . Maj Gen BS Raju

The place was so beautiful, with a lively mountain stream flowing along the golf course and a solo morning walk was pure bliss.

Though it was early in the morning, the entire place was lively with men, women and children in colourful clothes forming a long serpentine queue. Later I learnt that it was a very auspicious day in the temple when special prayers were organized.

After a nice south Indian breakfast of idli, dosa, vada topped up with Coffee, spent some time at the Equipment Museum at IMTRAT.

The vintage equipment on display included various items of  equipment used in army over the years . The items included vintage telephones, radio sets, computers, ordnance equipment and so on.

For youngsters it would be educative and for old-timers like me it was nostalgic. Well, when you realise that every item in the ‘Museum’ had been used by you at sometime or the other, you do feel ancient.


 

After that we proceeded to Paro through Chelela Pass. It was the day of Vijayadashami and Pooja at the IMTRAT was going on. We moved on as I wanted to cross the pass well in time, before weather turned cold and foggy.

The driver was a local person , Lahp Tsering. He could converse fluently in English and Hindi. He kept up a lively chatter and it turned out that besides being a qualified guide in Bhutan, he was also well-traveled and had spent about nine months in Europe. Bhutan Govt had sponsored a hotel management training course in Germany. After hopping from job to job he finally decided that Bhutan was the best place to live and was back. Most of the drivers of tourist cabs in Bhutan are qualified guides.

An aerial view of Haa Festival as seen from En-route to Paro. Photo : Vandana

It was foggy when we reached the pass and visibility was very poor

We reached the guest rooms at Paro at about 1 PM.

We had three places to see on our list; Rinpung Dzong, Kyichu Likhong (Temple) and of course , the local market. Our guide was well aware of the places to see , timings etc. The National Museum was closed that day due to Govt Holiday.

Rinpung Dzong . Photo: Vandana
Vajrayana Budhism is very colorful ; lots of Myths and Imagery

Wherever you go in Bhutan, there would be Dzongs and Likhongs.

Kyichu Likhong . Photo: Vandana

 

Kyichu Manastry . Photo : Vandana
Monks living area at the Monastery : Photo: vandana

For outsiders, one Dzong or a Likhong is very much like the other. Of course a place like Taktsang ( Tiger’s Nest) is something unique and ever since I heard about it, I wanted to make an earnest attempt to do the trek.

We had just one day , 9th Oct for the trek. Be it, online trip advisers or the locals, everyone concurred that a full day had to be set aside for the effort.

We were all apprehensive about our ability for endurance.  Wife Viji dropped out first followed by Suresh who had started having wheezing problems. On 8th , Suresh started running fever and we almost dropped the whole idea of Taktsang trip.

IMTRAT had a small dispensary at Paro staffed by a doctor and a nursing assistant.

With modern concepts of health-care, no doctor would venture to treat a fever before  seeing the reports of a battery of tests. Anyway, it is difficult to say whether it was the ubiquitous tablet of Paracetamol, or the security of having some kind of  medical help close by or simply the Grace of Providence, the fever came down by around ten at night.

So , Vandana and I did make our tryst with Taktsang on the 9th.

That would be the 6th and final part of this travelogue.

For sixth and the last part Click

Bhutan : The Land of Happiness – Part 4

Continued from Part 3

As per our Schedule we proceeded to Haa on the Morning of 7th Oct .

 Happy people find time to celebrate. Celebrations need not wait for an event like a  Birthday or a Wedding.  Any fine day  of clear sky and sunshine or a moonlit night can be and should be celebrated. My own suspicion is that ancient societies ‘invented ‘ birthdays of their favorite deities to coincide with pleasant weather conditions and full moon days.  How is it that  most full moon days are celebrated in some form or the other; Buddha Poornima, Guru Poornima, Kaarthiga Poornima , Gurpurab  in Punjab Chitra Pournami in Tamilnadu and so on ? Of course Deepawali , as a festival of lights ,conveniently falls on a New moon day .

Festivals , Tsechus, as they  are called in Bhutan  are rich and happy expressions of its ancient Buddhist culture. Vajrayana form of Buddhism has as many gods, goddesses and demons much like  Hinduism. These festivals are held in all districts in honour of Guru Rinpoche, the saint who introduced Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century. Tsechus are held on auspicious days and months in the Bhutanese calendar, and last up to four days in which a series of highly stylised masked dance rituals are performed.
Festivals are also a big family and social occasions. People dress up in their finest clothes and most resplendent jewelry of coral and turquoise. They pack picnic lunches in their traditional bamboo baskets and stay all day at the festivals which are usually held in the dzongs (fortresses) or at monasteries.
After a fierce monsoon from Jun to Sep, normally the Tshechus start in late Sep or Oct. The famous Thimpu Tsechu was starting on 8th Oct , a day after we were to leave Thimpu. But as luck would have it, we were going to Haa valley in the middle of a three day festival.
Children , as everywhere else, make most of these occasions
Kids in all fineries. Note the traditional Kira (dress) and the beads round their necks.

Haa is the home for Indian Military Training Team.  We stayed  in some fine guest rooms of IMTRAT.  We were tired after the not so long drive (three and a half  hours ) from Thimpu . But  before going to our rooms we went straight to the monastery to watch the mask dance for some time.

 

After lunch and some rest ,we went back again. There was a huge downpour but the festivities went on . There were a number of shops around the monastery, but it was all toys and other knick-nacks , a gift to the ancients from our ‘developed’ plastic civilization.

 

It’s at the Non CSD Canteen of IMTRAT that we found many handicraft items and other  items of clothing at reasonable rates. This shop was very popular among the locals who come from far off places to attend the fair.

here are some videos

loading videos
Loading Videos...

For Part 5 Click

Bhutan : The Land of Happiness – Part 3

6 Oct 2019

Continued from Part 2 

We had a whole extra day to explore Thimpu.

There are some things you won’t find on trip advisers. Though there are specific ‘view-points’ , any place on the few roads skirting around the valley gives a beautiful panoramic view. It’s worth stopping to admire the landscape.

A Panoramic view of Thimpu

 

Tashichhodzong , Govt Secretariat. Note the paddy fields around.

 

Down town or the local market is another place , not many tourists spend time in. Since we were free till 6:30, in the evening, we decided to explore the down town .

At about 9 in the morning, after a good breakfast, we started off for the local farmers’ market. For most people, a visit to a Mall or a Theater may not be an everyday event, but a visit to a vegetable market is a regular event particularly for the ladies.

Centenary Farmers Market

 

The upper floor is just for local Farm produce

 

Here’s a Vegetable and grains market that is clean, well organized and a treat to spend time in for adults and kids alike.

Centenary Market is located over a sprawling area on the bank of River Wangchu. On Google map it is shown as Thimpu Chu keeping with the pattern of naming rivers according to the towns they flow through, like Paro Chu.

The market is under control of the Govt regulators and their office right in the heart of the building.

The market is organized into organic produce section, imported vegetable section, grains section and spiritual items section. Every house has an ‘altar’ room and incense and butter lamps are everyday use items. You find all kinds of incense powders mostly herbal.

Children keep moving about on their own in a carefree manner while the adults are busy shopping. There is a Rest room also on one side of the shopping complex.

We were delighted to find banana flower and coconuts. Banana flower is something that is difficult to find in North India.

Bhutanese favour red rice which is either cooked as ‘sticky rice’ (south Indian way) or is roasted and eaten with suja(salt and butter tea)

Just across the river , a narrow stream really, there is a market for handicraft and regular use items like clothes and shoes. Here you find more local people than foreigners.

Bridge on River Wangchu; between vegetable market and Clothing/ Handicrafts Market

We bought some shawls made of baby yak wool. Mostly they are reasonably priced . While plain shawls are less expensive, ones with intricate patterns weaved into them are  more expensive. Things like small wooden containers , purses and bags are also sold in this market.

After the experience of local cuisine, the day before, we were looking forward to a more predictable meal of Dal, roti, sabji at the officers mess. I wanted to have some local tea before heading back to our guest rooms for lunch.

We found the right place for Suja.(salt – butter tea) It was a small store selling only organic products. There were 4-5 tables right in the middle of the store for tea and snacks. We also had some very tasty momos made of buck wheat and cassava (tapioca.) .

http://chunidingfood.com/ Place for Organic food .Store cum Cafe

Dinner at Sangay’s home.

This certainly was a high point on the whole trip. Sangay and I were meeting after about 40 years . His entire family was there. His sister had driven down from Paro. His children and grand children had also come over for a family get together.

We started with tea and it didn’t take long before we too felt like part of the family. Kids, as kids are, were climbing over the sofas and running around making the place truly lively ; all warmth and sunshine.

 

Grandma watching the kids

I asked for a local drink, without realizing what I was putting the hosts through. The hostess, had to get some ‘ara’ (a vintage one, I believe) from her daughter’s house. ( Ara, or Arag,  is a traditional alcoholic beverage consumed in Bhutan. Ara is made from native high-altitude tolerant barley, rice, maize, millet, or wheat, and may be either fermented or distilled.)   I had the pleasure of taking the drink , the  Bhutanese way. First, egg is cooked and the drink is poured over it. Then the gas is switched off. The drink has to be warmed enough just to bearable temperature. You just pour a drop on to back of your hand to check ; should be hot but not so hot that you pull your hand back.

That’s Ara being poured into the bowl

 

 

Quite a handful

 

 The food was excellent.  Notwithstanding the initial misgivings we had about our ability to enjoy the local food, the sheer variety of the spread and the warmth of hospitality proved too irresistible.  The local chilies made up for whatever taste an Indian tongue craves for.

Well, That’s a Photo to cherish !

A great day indeed. Cheers to Brig Sangay Thinlay and his Family !!

For Part 4 Click

Bhutan : The Land of Happiness Part 2

Continued from Bhutan – Part 1

05 Oct 2019 : Thimpu

Nowadays most of us lean heavily on google aunty( some would call google uncle) and online trip advisers to plan an itinerary. Nothing wrong with that. Only issue is that one has to be aware that the advice is based on the intentions of the majority of tourists; to cover maximum places in minimum time. This creates an inherent conflict; the more places you cover shallower will be the experience. One ends up moving from place to place, mentally checking off bullet points, with very little time to fully digest the sights and sounds.

So , should we temper the recommendations with our own  inclinations to buy stuff, do stuff and to just be what we are ? No adviser is aware of our capabilities, limitations and  the health status ; after all what’s the point in going to a place if you are in no shape to experience anything?

Our original plan was to spend two days at Thimpu, one day at Punakha, one day at Haa and two days at Paro. Later it was modified to three days at Thimpu with a day trip to Punakha. Though very much do-able, it would have meant covering around 200km in a day , and in the mountains , 200 Km is a lot.

As it panned out, Punakha had to be dropped altogether, due to some permit issues. In a way it was good since we could move around Thimpu more leisurely. Also our sixty year old frames would have been thankful to be spared the hectic road trip.

05 Oct 19

On our second day at Thimpu, our plan was to cover Simthoka Dzong, Royal, Takin Reserve, Dechenphug Lhakhang Folk Heritage Museum (Simply Bhutan), National Textile Museum and the local handicraft market.

Simthoka Dzong

Dzongs are Castle – Monastries. They are well fortified to withstand an attack by an army and are also places for monks to stay and practice their rituals and to meditate.

Normally one doesn’t associate Buddhist monks with battles. But it does appear from history that lamas fought other lamas often resulting in bitter stuggle spanning over centuries. Tibetan Buddhism , Main stream Mahayana Buddhism and our own Indian religious ideas influenced one another, sometimes clashed violently, leading to the present form of Buddhism in Bhutan.
It is called Vajrayana Buddhism.

 

Royal Takin Reserve

Here the animals are fenced in , over a large area in the natural habitat. In fact, the natural habitat gave them such a good cover ; we could just see them moving about lazily or just sitting ; there are no photographs to show; and they wouldn’t come out to pose for a selfie.

 

Dechenphug Lhakhang

Only Bhutanese are allowed to enter the temple . Note that even small children are dressed in traditional clothes. One group of worshipers  happily let us pose with them.

Folk Heritage Museum (Simply Bhutan)

The Tools for processing food.

This covers all aspects of Bhutanese culture; the way they live, build houses, the agricultural tools they use and so on.  There are English speaking guides to explain.

It was lunch time and we had worked up a healthy appetite. Despite our best efforts to enjoy local food, we failed miserably. By and large the food is bland . They sure don’t believe in spices or salt. They do have ferocious looking chillies  (if you are from Rajasthan, you would call it mouth-watering) . Personally , for me rice with anything is quite ok and yes, I kept a decent distance from the chillies.

Lunch Time.The Rs 500/ Entrance Ticket covers the cost of an authentic Bhutanese Meal.

 

 

After the meal you are treated to some practice in Archery.  You get two attempts and if you hit the target the staff breaks into a nice jig in Bhutanese style. As a group of four we did manage to get them dancing twice. Unfortunately there’s no photo to show. I feel one should have a battery powered video camera fixed to the forehead to record everything you look at .

Yes, it was a Hit

National Textile Museum

There is a rich history of weaving . There are many legends on the origin and evolution of weaving tools and skills as we see it today. While in most cultures, handloom industry is struggling to survive, in Bhutan the govt has taken massive efforts to keep it alive. There is a National Textile Academy in Thimpu to train weavers.

Weaving a single dress may take 3-6 months , while a machine made fabric is easier to make and is also less expensive.

Bhutanese are very proud of wearing their national dress and it is mandatory to wear it in religious places and Govt offices.

Local Handicrafts Market

There is a well laid out Handcrafts Market, though it appears expensive to a typical Indian tourist. Bargaining is frowned upon and there is hardly any Bhutanese trying to hard-sell any merchandise.

We found that many of the items were much cheaper at the IMTRAT Non CSD Canteen at Haa, which is open to faujis and the general public alike. (Useful tip for faujis)

PS

I had messaged an NDA and IMA coursemate of mine Brig Sangay Thinlay of Royal Bhutanese Army. He was a busy man on Palace duty and was then at Punakha in connection with funeral rites of the queen mother’s father, Yab Dasho Ugyen Dorji .
While we were shopping, I got a call from him and later he turned up to meet us at the market. He said, he was free the next day and invited us to dinner at his place. It was a pleasant surprise indeed. As it transpired later that he was called back to Punakha early morning on the 7th and he went back just as suddenly as he had come.

So there was something to look forward to in place of the Punakha Trip.

For Part 3 Click

Bhutan the Land of Happiness

Bhutan : The Land of Happiness

            A cursory search on the net would throw up a number of reasons as to why Bhutan is called the Land of Happiness.  For me, the one over-riding reason for calling it so,  would be my own experience of the seven days I spent there from 4th Oct to 10th Oct 2019.

A quote from Paulo Coelho’s Alchemist comes to mind .    May be it was the great company, the land , the weather ,the people or just good luck the whole universe seem to be conspiring to make it a truly memorable experience.  Even the occasional set backs turned out okay in the end, as if by magic.  While the memory is still fresh, I intend putting down all events, thoughts and photos not just to share with others but to help me re-live that experience later.

03 Oct 

Left home at around 830. Took the flight for delhi at 1100h. Rajji was with us till airport, to take a flight to Bombay  around the same time.

Journey to Delhi was smooth and uneventful. Reached USI Residency Resorts at around 1330h. Got the USI membership  card made. The apartment at USI really good.

Had lunch with Atul Madan. As a coincidence, I found a table where the JAT crest was prominently displayed .

Agarwals brought  with them, lots of rain . Reaching our rooms from the reception turned out to be more adventurous than any event at Bhutan as it turned out.

4th Oct

Early morning trip to the airport started with some anxious moments and ended up as an adventure. We were getting  an SUV for Rs 1100/ for dropping us at the airport. I was reluctant to pay that sum for a 5km/  15 minutes ride; particularly when Uber taxi was available for around rs 250/. So, I booked one. As it happened, the taxi was late, though the driver did contact.

While waiting for the taxi, another one, a sedan offered to drop us at the airport for the same fare. As a  CNG car  it had very little space for baggage. Nevertheless, we stacked some of the baggage on the front seat and four of us squeezed into the rear seat like teenagers.

We reached well in time and a mini crisis, turned to sheer adventure. That spirit of adventure set the tone for rest of the trip.

At the airport, we took a selfie to be sent the person from Indian Air Force who was to receive us at Paro.

The flight itself was awesome. The flight crew was  dressed in their national attire and were very polite and charming.

 

 

The view outside was fantastic. The flight route was parallel to the Himalayan ranges and you could see the majestic snow clad peaks Mt Everest, Makalu and Kanchenjunga. The day was so clear the roads in the plains were visible from an altitude of over 30000 feet.

A View of The Himalayan Ranges

 

The landing at Paro airport was tricky yet the pilot made it so smoothly and the passengers broke into a spontaneous applause . On stepping off the plane, the air was cool and crispy; absolutely rejuvenating.

What catches one’s eyes first is the ethnic ambiance all over. Even the airport buildings were constructed keeping with the national culture. The staff personnel were all  in their national attire .

Corporal Arvind Kaushik had no problems identifying us.  He just collected all our passports and whisked us through customs and immigration. We also got two sim-cards for ourselves just bought over the counter, on production of our passports. As it happened, there was no need to take out all the documents of our identity papers , itinerary and so on that  we had methodically compiled.

We proceeded straight to Thimpu. IMTRAT (Indian Militart Training Team) guest rooms were superb. It was a difficult choice to make; whether to stay indoors in these rooms are to go out and enjoy the excellent environment outside. We decided on the latter. As we had been invited for dinner at Maj Gen Raju’s place, we had just two hours or so at our disposal. So, we went to Bhuddha’s point just about half an hour’s drive.

What a sight! A giant Buddha benignly smiling at the sprawling valley of Thimpu. Nowadays, tourist friendly places have motor-able roads or may be even aerial cable cars everywhere. This Buddha Statue has an approach through a hundred odd user-un-friendly steps besides the motor-able road.
Against the advice of our guide and braving the reluctance from our group I decided to take the steps on our return. It , sure was worth the effort. It was sheer bliss to be sitting on those steps with a benign half smile like the great Buddha himself.

Frankly, I did not expect the Commandant of IMTRAT to spare an evening to host a dinner for us. It was very kind of him to come over to our guest rooms to welcome us. He also went that extra mile to invite us to dinner at the Flag Staff House, the official residence of the commandant.

At the dinner, the Rajus were warm and friendly and it was more like a family gathering rather than a regimental officers re-union.

For the Next Part Click