Bhutan : The Land of Happiness – Part 3

6 Oct 2019

Continued from Part 2 

We had a whole extra day to explore Thimpu.

There are some things you won’t find on trip advisers. Though there are specific ‘view-points’ , any place on the few roads skirting around the valley gives a beautiful panoramic view. It’s worth stopping to admire the landscape.

A Panoramic view of Thimpu

 

Tashichhodzong , Govt Secretariat. Note the paddy fields around.

 

Down town or the local market is another place , not many tourists spend time in. Since we were free till 6:30, in the evening, we decided to explore the down town .

At about 9 in the morning, after a good breakfast, we started off for the local farmers’ market. For most people, a visit to a Mall or a Theater may not be an everyday event, but a visit to a vegetable market is a regular event particularly for the ladies.

Centenary Farmers Market

 

The upper floor is just for local Farm produce

 

Here’s a Vegetable and grains market that is clean, well organized and a treat to spend time in for adults and kids alike.

Centenary Market is located over a sprawling area on the bank of River Wangchu. On Google map it is shown as Thimpu Chu keeping with the pattern of naming rivers according to the towns they flow through, like Paro Chu.

The market is under control of the Govt regulators and their office right in the heart of the building.

The market is organized into organic produce section, imported vegetable section, grains section and spiritual items section. Every house has an ‘altar’ room and incense and butter lamps are everyday use items. You find all kinds of incense powders mostly herbal.

Children keep moving about on their own in a carefree manner while the adults are busy shopping. There is a Rest room also on one side of the shopping complex.

We were delighted to find banana flower and coconuts. Banana flower is something that is difficult to find in North India.

Bhutanese favour red rice which is either cooked as ‘sticky rice’ (south Indian way) or is roasted and eaten with suja(salt and butter tea)

Just across the river , a narrow stream really, there is a market for handicraft and regular use items like clothes and shoes. Here you find more local people than foreigners.

Bridge on River Wangchu; between vegetable market and Clothing/ Handicrafts Market

We bought some shawls made of baby yak wool. Mostly they are reasonably priced . While plain shawls are less expensive, ones with intricate patterns weaved into them are  more expensive. Things like small wooden containers , purses and bags are also sold in this market.

After the experience of local cuisine, the day before, we were looking forward to a more predictable meal of Dal, roti, sabji at the officers mess. I wanted to have some local tea before heading back to our guest rooms for lunch.

We found the right place for Suja.(salt – butter tea) It was a small store selling only organic products. There were 4-5 tables right in the middle of the store for tea and snacks. We also had some very tasty momos made of buck wheat and cassava (tapioca.) .

http://chunidingfood.com/ Place for Organic food .Store cum Cafe

Dinner at Sangay’s home.

This certainly was a high point on the whole trip. Sangay and I were meeting after about 40 years . His entire family was there. His sister had driven down from Paro. His children and grand children had also come over for a family get together.

We started with tea and it didn’t take long before we too felt like part of the family. Kids, as kids are, were climbing over the sofas and running around making the place truly lively ; all warmth and sunshine.

 

Grandma watching the kids

I asked for a local drink, without realizing what I was putting the hosts through. The hostess, had to get some ‘ara’ (a vintage one, I believe) from her daughter’s house. ( Ara, or Arag,  is a traditional alcoholic beverage consumed in Bhutan. Ara is made from native high-altitude tolerant barley, rice, maize, millet, or wheat, and may be either fermented or distilled.)   I had the pleasure of taking the drink , the  Bhutanese way. First, egg is cooked and the drink is poured over it. Then the gas is switched off. The drink has to be warmed enough just to bearable temperature. You just pour a drop on to back of your hand to check ; should be hot but not so hot that you pull your hand back.

That’s Ara being poured into the bowl

 

 

Quite a handful

 

 The food was excellent.  Notwithstanding the initial misgivings we had about our ability to enjoy the local food, the sheer variety of the spread and the warmth of hospitality proved too irresistible.  The local chilies made up for whatever taste an Indian tongue craves for.

Well, That’s a Photo to cherish !

A great day indeed. Cheers to Brig Sangay Thinlay and his Family !!

For Part 4 Click

Bhutan : The Land of Happiness Part 2

Continued from Bhutan – Part 1

05 Oct 2019 : Thimpu

Nowadays most of us lean heavily on google aunty( some would call google uncle) and online trip advisers to plan an itinerary. Nothing wrong with that. Only issue is that one has to be aware that the advice is based on the intentions of the majority of tourists; to cover maximum places in minimum time. This creates an inherent conflict; the more places you cover shallower will be the experience. One ends up moving from place to place, mentally checking off bullet points, with very little time to fully digest the sights and sounds.

So , should we temper the recommendations with our own  inclinations to buy stuff, do stuff and to just be what we are ? No adviser is aware of our capabilities, limitations and  the health status ; after all what’s the point in going to a place if you are in no shape to experience anything?

Our original plan was to spend two days at Thimpu, one day at Punakha, one day at Haa and two days at Paro. Later it was modified to three days at Thimpu with a day trip to Punakha. Though very much do-able, it would have meant covering around 200km in a day , and in the mountains , 200 Km is a lot.

As it panned out, Punakha had to be dropped altogether, due to some permit issues. In a way it was good since we could move around Thimpu more leisurely. Also our sixty year old frames would have been thankful to be spared the hectic road trip.

05 Oct 19

On our second day at Thimpu, our plan was to cover Simthoka Dzong, Royal, Takin Reserve, Dechenphug Lhakhang Folk Heritage Museum (Simply Bhutan), National Textile Museum and the local handicraft market.

Simthoka Dzong

Dzongs are Castle – Monastries. They are well fortified to withstand an attack by an army and are also places for monks to stay and practice their rituals and to meditate.

Normally one doesn’t associate Buddhist monks with battles. But it does appear from history that lamas fought other lamas often resulting in bitter stuggle spanning over centuries. Tibetan Buddhism , Main stream Mahayana Buddhism and our own Indian religious ideas influenced one another, sometimes clashed violently, leading to the present form of Buddhism in Bhutan.
It is called Vajrayana Buddhism.

 

Royal Takin Reserve

Here the animals are fenced in , over a large area in the natural habitat. In fact, the natural habitat gave them such a good cover ; we could just see them moving about lazily or just sitting ; there are no photographs to show; and they wouldn’t come out to pose for a selfie.

 

Dechenphug Lhakhang

Only Bhutanese are allowed to enter the temple . Note that even small children are dressed in traditional clothes. One group of worshipers  happily let us pose with them.

Folk Heritage Museum (Simply Bhutan)

The Tools for processing food.

This covers all aspects of Bhutanese culture; the way they live, build houses, the agricultural tools they use and so on.  There are English speaking guides to explain.

It was lunch time and we had worked up a healthy appetite. Despite our best efforts to enjoy local food, we failed miserably. By and large the food is bland . They sure don’t believe in spices or salt. They do have ferocious looking chillies  (if you are from Rajasthan, you would call it mouth-watering) . Personally , for me rice with anything is quite ok and yes, I kept a decent distance from the chillies.

Lunch Time.The Rs 500/ Entrance Ticket covers the cost of an authentic Bhutanese Meal.

 

 

After the meal you are treated to some practice in Archery.  You get two attempts and if you hit the target the staff breaks into a nice jig in Bhutanese style. As a group of four we did manage to get them dancing twice. Unfortunately there’s no photo to show. I feel one should have a battery powered video camera fixed to the forehead to record everything you look at .

Yes, it was a Hit

National Textile Museum

There is a rich history of weaving . There are many legends on the origin and evolution of weaving tools and skills as we see it today. While in most cultures, handloom industry is struggling to survive, in Bhutan the govt has taken massive efforts to keep it alive. There is a National Textile Academy in Thimpu to train weavers.

Weaving a single dress may take 3-6 months , while a machine made fabric is easier to make and is also less expensive.

Bhutanese are very proud of wearing their national dress and it is mandatory to wear it in religious places and Govt offices.

Local Handicrafts Market

There is a well laid out Handcrafts Market, though it appears expensive to a typical Indian tourist. Bargaining is frowned upon and there is hardly any Bhutanese trying to hard-sell any merchandise.

We found that many of the items were much cheaper at the IMTRAT Non CSD Canteen at Haa, which is open to faujis and the general public alike. (Useful tip for faujis)

PS

I had messaged an NDA and IMA coursemate of mine Brig Sangay Thinlay of Royal Bhutanese Army. He was a busy man on Palace duty and was then at Punakha in connection with funeral rites of the queen mother’s father, Yab Dasho Ugyen Dorji .
While we were shopping, I got a call from him and later he turned up to meet us at the market. He said, he was free the next day and invited us to dinner at his place. It was a pleasant surprise indeed. As it transpired later that he was called back to Punakha early morning on the 7th and he went back just as suddenly as he had come.

So there was something to look forward to in place of the Punakha Trip.

For Part 3 Click

Bhutan the Land of Happiness

Bhutan : The Land of Happiness

            A cursory search on the net would throw up a number of reasons as to why Bhutan is called the Land of Happiness.  For me, the one over-riding reason for calling it so,  would be my own experience of the seven days I spent there from 4th Oct to 10th Oct 2019.

A quote from Paulo Coelho’s Alchemist comes to mind .    May be it was the great company, the land , the weather ,the people or just good luck the whole universe seem to be conspiring to make it a truly memorable experience.  Even the occasional set backs turned out okay in the end, as if by magic.  While the memory is still fresh, I intend putting down all events, thoughts and photos not just to share with others but to help me re-live that experience later.

03 Oct 

Left home at around 830. Took the flight for delhi at 1100h. Rajji was with us till airport, to take a flight to Bombay  around the same time.

Journey to Delhi was smooth and uneventful. Reached USI Residency Resorts at around 1330h. Got the USI membership  card made. The apartment at USI really good.

Had lunch with Atul Madan. As a coincidence, I found a table where the JAT crest was prominently displayed .

Agarwals brought  with them, lots of rain . Reaching our rooms from the reception turned out to be more adventurous than any event at Bhutan as it turned out.

4th Oct

Early morning trip to the airport started with some anxious moments and ended up as an adventure. We were getting  an SUV for Rs 1100/ for dropping us at the airport. I was reluctant to pay that sum for a 5km/  15 minutes ride; particularly when Uber taxi was available for around rs 250/. So, I booked one. As it happened, the taxi was late, though the driver did contact.

While waiting for the taxi, another one, a sedan offered to drop us at the airport for the same fare. As a  CNG car  it had very little space for baggage. Nevertheless, we stacked some of the baggage on the front seat and four of us squeezed into the rear seat like teenagers.

We reached well in time and a mini crisis, turned to sheer adventure. That spirit of adventure set the tone for rest of the trip.

At the airport, we took a selfie to be sent the person from Indian Air Force who was to receive us at Paro.

The flight itself was awesome. The flight crew was  dressed in their national attire and were very polite and charming.

 

 

The view outside was fantastic. The flight route was parallel to the Himalayan ranges and you could see the majestic snow clad peaks Mt Everest, Makalu and Kanchenjunga. The day was so clear the roads in the plains were visible from an altitude of over 30000 feet.

A View of The Himalayan Ranges

 

The landing at Paro airport was tricky yet the pilot made it so smoothly and the passengers broke into a spontaneous applause . On stepping off the plane, the air was cool and crispy; absolutely rejuvenating.

What catches one’s eyes first is the ethnic ambiance all over. Even the airport buildings were constructed keeping with the national culture. The staff personnel were all  in their national attire .

Corporal Arvind Kaushik had no problems identifying us.  He just collected all our passports and whisked us through customs and immigration. We also got two sim-cards for ourselves just bought over the counter, on production of our passports. As it happened, there was no need to take out all the documents of our identity papers , itinerary and so on that  we had methodically compiled.

We proceeded straight to Thimpu. IMTRAT (Indian Militart Training Team) guest rooms were superb. It was a difficult choice to make; whether to stay indoors in these rooms are to go out and enjoy the excellent environment outside. We decided on the latter. As we had been invited for dinner at Maj Gen Raju’s place, we had just two hours or so at our disposal. So, we went to Bhuddha’s point just about half an hour’s drive.

What a sight! A giant Buddha benignly smiling at the sprawling valley of Thimpu. Nowadays, tourist friendly places have motor-able roads or may be even aerial cable cars everywhere. This Buddha Statue has an approach through a hundred odd user-un-friendly steps besides the motor-able road.
Against the advice of our guide and braving the reluctance from our group I decided to take the steps on our return. It , sure was worth the effort. It was sheer bliss to be sitting on those steps with a benign half smile like the great Buddha himself.

Frankly, I did not expect the Commandant of IMTRAT to spare an evening to host a dinner for us. It was very kind of him to come over to our guest rooms to welcome us. He also went that extra mile to invite us to dinner at the Flag Staff House, the official residence of the commandant.

At the dinner, the Rajus were warm and friendly and it was more like a family gathering rather than a regimental officers re-union.

For the Next Part Click

Never Lost Again : Bill Kilday

There is hardly any computer or mobile phone user untouched by Google in the past decade.

Be it Gmail , Maps , YouTube , Android or the ubiquitous Google search box , most of us can’t imagine life without the google products.

To top it, no one pays a Google bill !

Today we take Google Maps for granted , to get the directions to reach a place ,to look for a restaurant nearby or simply to know where you are at a particular time while travelling.  It is such a recent phenomenon  and yet it makes you wonder how you got along earlier before Google Maps came into being.

“Never Lost Again” by Bill Kilday  is the story of the evolution of Google Maps. I say evolution and not development as these kind of projects do not follow a rigid plan but take their own course depending on a plethora of factors like hardware capabilities, state of economy, availability of funds, Marketability of intermediate products and by-products and of course chance happenings.

No doubt Americans are great innovators. An average american is unfettered by too many cultural Dos and Don’ts and dares to attempt what appears impossible.  While in fields like Automobiles, aviation, Pharmacy or Domestic appliances the improvements  are incremental,  in the field of information technology it is real magic ,particularly so after the advent of Internet or simply the NET.

Before the Iphone, who would have thought of multi touch access or pinching an image to zoom in or zoom out ? Who would have thought of accessing dynamic , global maps through a pocket size device ? Even now I feel , sheer magic it is !

Perhaps there is not one company at the Silicon Valley  that deliberately planned and developed such devices or technologies.  It is a convergence of technologies related to Maps, satellite imagery,  gaming, search engines all evolving independently to create the great user experience that we are seeing today.

Google Maps as we know today is a convergence of Smartphone Operating System, Database applications, Digital Mapping, Satellite imagery and Search Engine Algorithms.

In the period 1995-2005, a number of start ups shot up funded by Venture Capitalists. Most of them folded up due to lack of funds and a a few survived.  It  does not mean that the survivors were the very the best  in the business as there were so many factors other than technology that decided who would survive.

Fortunately or unfortunately, in the field of IT, the rule is “winner takes all” . You can be never sure  if the good guy has won. In the OS war, Windows along with Internet Explorer emerged victorious in the 90s and the issue is very much debatable if life of a PC User would have been better had someone else won. (As I am writing this I just got a report of a Windows 10 Crash from a friend. ) Of course , any system can crash but I generally find a kind of helplessness with windows users when their system does not behave in the way they expect it to.

Never Lost Again is the story of a company called Keyhole  , a provider of digital maps to its subscribers over the internet. The story is narrated as seen through the eyes of a marketing man ; one who calls himself a Product Manager and a Product Marketing Manager, both rolled into one.

So you learn more about financial, legal and marketing challenges than about technology . In a way this makes it a more interesting read. Who wants to read about algorithms and image formats ? Yes, lot of complex processes are  absurdly simplified  but it keeps the interest alive for a layman ;for eg “Stitching up images into a mosaic to be streamed through a server ” definitely sounds better than “separating luma signal and chroma signal and using advance video codecs to compress “

Be that as it may, the trials and tribulations that a start up team undergoes is fascinating and awe-inspiring.  I feel entrepreneurs are more successful in US  than elsewhere as there, it is okay to fail. They take more risks or to put it in baseball idiom, they take mighty swings with gay abandon and once connected end up with  huge hits !

Out of all the IT companies, Google definitely stands out as unique as they aimed at great user experience rather than profits. The Keyholers (Keyhole Company emplyees) once merged with Googlers on acquisition, noticed that in Google nobody talked about revenues, break-even point etc. They solely went after great user experience which they achieved to the full extent ; and the dollars followed them automatically.

It is absolutely incredible  that after burning millions of dollars to create Google Maps and Google earth, they just gave it away for free and yet made up for this loss on revenues from sheer brand value of Google and revenue from other products .

In his letter to Shareholders Google Co founders warned the investors that it was not a conventional company to focus on wealth creation for shareholders. Yet the market continued to reward the shareholders with huge profits year after year.

Today the google products , beside the well known Google toolbar include Gmail, You-tube, Google docs, Google-drive, Photos, Translate, News ,Books  etc covering  every aspect of personal computers. It is not exaggeration to say that all your computer needs are fulfilled just by a laptop running on Linux OS  and a reliable WIfi connection. There is absolutely no need for any other software like windows or MS Office, and it’s all on the cloud and it’s all for free to use . Who says there’s no free lunch ?!

Trivia

The geeks may not go after profits but they sure do put their signatures on their products. I use Debian OS ; which user of the OS can forget the name of the creator  Ian and his girlfriend Deborah.

Recently I learnt ,Android was created by  Andy Rubin ! 

 

 

 

Who moved the personal websites and why do we need to revive them?

It was circa 1998, and with my first ever internet connection, Satyam online, I was surfing the net at snail’s pace. I stumbled on a web hosting site called angelfire.com.

They were giving away free web hosting space for single page websites for people wanting to publish personal web sites.

I came across a six year old from Sweden who had published a picture of her doll house with a short note about herself. Could not find that site , she would be a young lady by now. The pic above shows another six year old rocking on his personal web site.

I asked myself , if a six year old could do it, why not me. I registered my first domain name Sibha.com for free and published my first web page at angelfire.com. 50 percent of the screen space was covered by advertisements and I had a domain name and hosting space for free! Cost of paid hosting was quite prohibitive, not to mention the cost of hardware and networking connectivity.

It was almost thirty years ago and yet today we hardly see any personal web sites. Who killed the interest ?

Firstly, those were the days when there were no smart-phones and applications like Facebook and WhatsApp were beyond any imagination. The first web application on social media, as I know was Orkut by Google in 2004.

So, personal website was the only way one shared photos on public. The net connectivity was not good enough for sharing videos.

Of course email groups were the conduits for sharing gossips and net gyan. So, it made a lot of sense for anyone; individual or a commercial venture to have a website to communicate with the public. HTML language and web site designing were taught in schools, though as always HTML was taught in Indian schools by teachers who had no idea of computers and it was just another set of questions and answers.

After the dot com bubble burst in the early 2000, and with the advent of smartphones and dumb apps, emails and web sites were solely for business . The death knell to personal websites was sounded loud and clear.

Why do we need to revive it ?

Today we have a plethora of media to convey to the rest of the world what you had for breakfast and what gifts you got for your birthday . The vocabulary of a netizen is restricted to like, forward , upload, emojis and stickers.

The art of writing a good email or creating an art work with 0s and 1s is hardly rewarded. Just pick up something from the net and keep forwarding it to all your friends, frenemies and their uncles and aunts.

 For young people, particularly, a website would foster creativity while instagram or whatsapp makes people Zombies. New terms have come up like sexting and drunken texting , in this age of instant gratification. When I write a blog , I look for a quiet place and for texting and forwarding memes, the noisier the place , better it is.


Whatever, while Smartphones with their apps cannot be wished away, they do have their place, it is time we revive the kind of media that calls for deliberate creative writing (not texting) or art work.

Any company or a professional who wants to showcase her products or ideas would require a website, not whatsapp or facebook.

Other big changes which have occurred over the years is the falling price of web hosting and ease of web designing. Today you can host a site at one third of the money you spend on mobile bills. You can put up a site and maintain it without writing a single line of code.

Here’s a brief howto defined in Four Steps on how to approach the issue if you ever want a site of your own.

Step 1. Decide on the right name and a domain name for your site. It could be personal like ‘anuwrites.online’ or a business-like url printsolutions.com .

Step 2. Goto any of the hosting sites which would do the name registration . Some links are https://in.godaddy.com/ , https://www.bigrock.in/ . Register your domain name for one year, two years or as you wish. Sample pricing per year is as under


Step 3 . Find a place to host your site. Basically these companies provide the servers to serve your web pages to the public. Here again the rates are very reasonable besides the links given in step 2 there are many who claim to provide discount hosting , eg  https://hostripples.in/

Step 4 . Now that you have an address for your place on the net , you have a place to store the contents in the form of 0s and 1s, you can start the design and construction. For personal web sites , it would be total fun to design your own site, particularly if you have time to waste on whatsapp and facebook arguing with strangers or fishing for likes from the whole world  . If you are a busy person or if you want a professional designer, just use justdial or google your way to find a web designer.

Cheers ! 

Gora – Rabindranath Tagore

I have been spending the past couple of months or so bingeing on some serious retro reading about stories set in Kumaon , Bengal and Tamil Country of 19th Century. What surprises me is that the core issues debated then were not very different from the Whatsapp and TV channel debates today; only the medium was different.

Gora by Rabindra Nath Tagore gives a wonderful picture of the rise of Brohmosamaj , Influence of British Raj on the society (the good and the bad) and the Traditional Hindus’ resistance to this onslaught.

The fight continues to this day, politically and socially as can be seen from anti-superstition legislatures in Karanataka and Maharashtra and the bill now being debated in Kerala. Superstitions or blind faith , mostly harmless, have  been common among all faiths including athiesm (Karunanithi never went out without his yellow shawl , UP Chief Minister wouldn’t visit NOIDA and master blaster Sachin Tendulkar always wore his left pad first, for luck). It is good to fight injustice and ignorance anywhere but somehow it is only Hinduism in general and brahmins in particular who  have been consistently singled out to be attacked by ‘rationalists’. The irony of Brohma samaj is that it was a group of twice-born brahmins who started the  movement to reform Hinduism from within but ended up becoming outcastes from  all societies , Hindu and  Non Hindu alike and finally Adhi Brohmo samaj had to be declared a separate religion, at least to validate the marriages among followers of the belief.

read more about brohmos

Every single character in the Novel is developed beautifully, taking care not to idolize or demonise any one. The followers of brohmosamj or Brohmos as they were called started out as reformers , but fell prey to creating another sect as rigid or perhaps more rigid , as the followers of Hindu Shastras. While Hindus have in-numerous beliefs or superstitions and some of them non-negotiable , the brohmos had evolved their own non-negotiable behaviour for their followers. It is not just they had to refrain from idol worship they were to stay away from from their own family members if any of them were to practice idol worship in whatever form.

The central character as the title suggests is ‘Gora’ short for Gourmohan Babu. He is firm in his convictions on following the Shastras as laid down over centuries.  At the same time, he loathes to ill-treat a fellow human being in the name of religion or traditions.

His convictions are brought out in the umpteen debates  he joins at the drop of a hat.

Those whom you call illiterate are those to whose party I belong. What you call superstition, that is my faith! So long as you do not love your country and take your stand beside your own people, I will not allow one word of abuse of the motherland from you.”

…….”Reform? That can wait a while yet. More important than reforms are love and respect. Reform will come of itself from within, after we are a united people. You would break up the country into a hundred bits by your policy of separateness. Because, forsooth, our country is full of superstitions, you, the non-superstitious, must keep superior and aloof! What I say is,—may it be my greatest desire never to keep apart from the rest, even by becoming superior! ….

…..Let me tell you that we are not going to submit to outside attempts to reform us, whether it be from you or from foreign missionaries.”…….

“I want you to remember one thing. If we have the mistaken notion that because the English are strong we can never become strong unless we become exactly like them, then that impossibility will never be achieved, for by mere imitation we shall eventually be neither one thing nor the other. To you I make only this request: come inside India, accept all her good and her evil: if there be deformity then try and cure it from within, but see it with your own eyes, understand it, think over it, turn your face towards it, become one with it. You will never understand if you stand opposed and, imbued to the bone with Christian ideas, view it from outside. Then you will only try to wound and never be of any service.”

Then you have Anandmoyi, the most lovable, compassionate mother. She defies the society when it goes against her conscience to follow its dictates  , yet she insists on staying in the society though it  never accepts her ways. She brings to life, the mother that Swami Vivekananda speaks about in his lectures.

Paresh Babu is a prominent leader of Brohmosamaj, who was a young turk in his own youth, as one who broke away from traditional path . Over a period of time he matures into a kind of universal guru for Hindus and Brohmos alike.

Though a committed Brohmo, his heart is large enough to accommodate all:–

……..As for myself, I pray to god that I may always be a simple, humble worshipper of truth, whether in a Brahmo temple or at a Hindu shrine….

..”There are plenty of such people amongst Brahmos also,” said Paresh Babu. “They want to sever all connections with Hinduism without discrimination, lest outsiders should mistakenly think they condone also its evil customs…

Binoy is a gentle person whose loyalty for Gora restrains him from exercising his free will at times.  On some prodding from the spirited Brohmos girl Lolita he asserts his right to be open to all ideas, even while attached to the Shastras and traditions as long as they do not hurt anyone.

When Gora tries to stop him from having tea in a brohmo’s house, he takes a firm stand . It might look silly today to consider it courageous to accept food or water from a person of different faith, but one has to be in that space and time to understand what it takes to defy the societal norms.

But really, Gora,” expostulated Binoy, “if it is a blow to society for someone to drink a cup of tea, then all I can say is that such blows are good for the country. If we try to protect the country from this kind of thing, we shall only make it weak and effeminate.”

The Brohmos sisters Sucharita and Lolita form the centre of the plot along with the Gora and Binoy. They are encouraged by Paresh Babu to question everything even while taking a humane approach to every issue. This very aspect, leads them to question the rigidity of thought in the supposed to be a reformist movement “The Brohmo Samaj” . Their mother ‘Baroda’ or Bordashundari on the contrary is an extreme brohmo to the extent she wouldn’t stand any Hindu custom or tradition if only because it is related to Hindus. This attitude results in a visceral hatred for idol worship, hindu scriptures ,rituals  etc.  The author brings in another character Harimohini perhaps to counter balance Ms Baroda. Harimohini is a typical pious Hindu lady in her external behaviour and yet she can be so manipulative  to use the shastras as a weapon to hurt others or get her way through. Both Baroda and Harimohini are   anti-thesis to Anandamoyi, who ironically is ostracized by both societies !

Krishnadayal, Gora’s father is the stereotype orthodox hindu who cares only for his own salvation or what he thinks would lead to that.

The entire story is narrated in the form of serious discussions , more like a formal debate . How the main protagonists start from rock solid  convictions and yet evolve emotionally and intellectually to find a middle path acceptable to all parties is what the story is all about.

 

A Scene from a play Gora enacted in Hyderabad (Courtesy The Hindu).

 

After a number of twists and turns, it is neither the Shastras nor the dogmas of Brohmos but simple humaneness prevails ; the traditionalists Gora and Binoy get married to the Brohmos, Sucharitra and Lolita with the blessings of Gora’s mother Anandamoyi and Lolitha’s father Paresh Babu even while the entire society, brohmos and hindus alike are opposed to these marriages. They choose to be united by the common values they share like compassion , charity, sympathy for less fortunate people , rather than be divided by the ideologies of the society they belong to.

A wonderful read, particularly for the present times; I wish I could have read it in original Bangla , as many nuances get lost in translation.


 

Brohmo Samaj

Most of us would be aware that Brohmo Samaj was started as a reform movement from within the Hindufold. But not many of us would be aware of the number of splits and mergers  it underwent over a period of time and its present status.

To put it briefly, it started as a Hindu reform movement, leaned heavily towards Christianity under Keshab Chandra Sen and then once Christian ideology was firmly expelled , it became an independent religion called Adhi Brohmo Samaj

The core Adi-Dharma doctrinal beliefs differing from Brahmanical Hinduism include:

  1. There is only One “Supreme Spirit”, Author and Preserver of Existence. (… Beyond description, immanent, transcendent, eternal, formless, infinite, powerful, radiant, loving, light in the darkness, ruling principle of existence …. Polytheism is denounced. Idolatry i.e. worship of images is opposed.)
  2. There is no salvation and no way to achieve it. (“Works will win”. Worshipful work is the way of existence. Work is for both body and soul. All life exists to be consumed. The soul is immortal and does not return to this World. There is neither Heaven nor Hell nor rebirth)
  3. There is no scripture, revelation, creation, prophet, priest or teacher to be revered. (Only the Supreme Spirit of Existence can be revered – not the Vedas, Granths, Bibles or Quran etc. Worship consist of revering the “inner light within” i.e. enlightened conscience)
  4. There is no distinction. (All men are equal. Distinctions like caste, race, creed, colour, gender, nationality etc. are artificial. There is no need for priests, places of worship, long sermons[3] etc. “Man-worship” or “God-men” are abhorrent to the faith and denounced since there is no mediator between man and God).

Legal Status of the Brahmo Religion

In a landmark case of 1901 (Bhagwan Koer & Ors v J.C.Bose & Ors, 31 Cal 11, 30 ELR IA 249) Britain’s highest judicial authority, the Privy Council, upheld the finding of the High Court of the undivided Punjab that the vast majority of Brahmo religionists are not Hindus and have their own religion. The Council upheld the finding of the High Court that Debendranath Tagore was the founder of the Brahmo religion. The High Court in 1897 had distinguished anusthanic Brahmo “religionists” (“outside the pale of Hinduism”) from ananusthanic “followers” of the Brahmo Samaj who continue to retain their Hinduism or other existing religion.

In 1949 the Government of India passed the “Hindu Marriages Validity Act”. Despite discussion in Parliament Brahmos are not brought within the scope of this Law. In 1955 the Government of India passes the “Hindu Code” (a comprehensive set of laws for Hindus). Again despite discussion in Parliament, Brahmo religionists are not brought within the scope of these laws which, however, now become applicable to Hindus who are also followers of the Brahmo Samaj.

In 2002, Bangladesh (whose Law Commission relied on the binding decision of the High Court of undivided Punjab) enacted a law recognizing Brahmo religionists and Brahmo marriages under traditional rites to Hindus, Jains, Sikhs and Buddhists as legally valid.

On 05.May.2004 the Supreme Court of India by order of the Chief Justice dismissed the Government of West Bengal’s 30 year litigation to get Brahmos classified as Hindus. The matter had previously been heard by an 11 Judge Constitution Bench of the Court (the second largest bench in the Court’s history).

 

A Trivia The Nehru family made a good use of the Brahmos Marriage Act -1872 , in that starting from Nehru’s sister Krishna Huttheesing, followed by  Indira Gandhi , Rajiv Gandhi, Sanjai Gandhi and Priyanka Vadra, all  got married under this act as this is the only ‘religion’ that caters for marriage between people of different religions and it doesn’t require any conversion.

 

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Living Close to Nature

While browsing through some TED talks , I stumbled on a talk by Jon Jandai of Thailand. It was a simple talk , delivered in a gentle voice . Life is Easy ! Why are we making it difficult ? That really got me. Why do we need to earn for 30 years to build or buy a house ? The main requirements are food and housing. He was the first in his village to take up organic farming. He build mud houses which are eco friendly and inexpensive . The skeptic would say, “come rains and it’ll all get washed away.” . After pursuing his convictions for 15 years , people from world over are noticing him.

Today he runs an establishment called Pun Pun , a centre for self reliance. It is a kind of gurukul where people from world over come to learn , share ideas on living close to nature.

Jon says, “why should we look at money as security ? Let us look at building resources for our security. These resources would be food , water, and fertile soil. On one hand we work so hard for money and on the other hand, the same hard work is fast depleting the natural resources that we need for our happiness and security. “

There are a number of videos on the net on organic farming, building of mud houses, making charcoal for energy and such traditional knowledge and skills for self-sustainance.

The idea is not new. Thiruvalluvar of 1st century or Tolstoy or Mahatma Gandhi of last century were great proponents of living with nature.

I suppose the Renaissance period and the growth of Science in the West, prompted an idea that we can conquer nature, and now we are paying for it heavily. Can’t blame Science , but the idea that Science can conquer nature is definitely debatable.

This idea is best expressed in the words of Francis Bacon ;

My only earthly wish is . . . to stretch the deplorably narrow limits of man’s dominion over the universe to their promised bounds.”
“………….putting [nature] on the rack and extracting her secrets,” and of “storming her strongholds and castles.”    “……………..I am come in very truth leading you to Nature with all her children to bind her to your service and make her your slave. The mechanical inventions of recent years do not merely exert a gentle guidance over Nature’s courses, they have the power to conquer and subdue her, to shake her to her foundations…………….”

Of course, there are some who believe that these words are wrongly attributed to Bacon. Be that as it may, such an idea exists that nature can be and should be conquered for man’s comfort.

Some people go to the extent of relating it to the idea of nature as a woman and Science as a kind of Inquisitor putting her on the racks to extract her secrets as witch hunting was done in the medieval period. Vandana Shiva of Navdania movement elaborates on the idea in her book Staying Alive.

Here are some videos on Jon Jandai and Pun Pun of Thailand

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Things to Leave Behind : Namita Gokhale

The novelist, Namita Gokhale is from an illustrious family of Kumaon. Born in Lucknow in 1956, Gokhale was brought up by her irrepressible grandmother Shakuntala Pande—niece of freedom fighter Pandit Govind Ballabh Pant—and free-spirited aunts (Jayanti Pant and Hindi writer Shivani-Gaura Pant ), in an extended joint family in Nainital. First time I read about … Continue reading “Things to Leave Behind : Namita Gokhale”

The novelist, Namita Gokhale is from an illustrious family of Kumaon. Born in Lucknow in 1956, Gokhale was brought up by her irrepressible grandmother Shakuntala Pande—niece of freedom fighter Pandit Govind Ballabh Pant—and free-spirited aunts (Jayanti Pant and Hindi writer Shivani-Gaura Pant ), in an extended joint family in Nainital.

First time I read about these crazy ladies was in the book ‘Diddi‘ , the story of Shivani by her youngest daughter Ira Pande.  Shivani  is not well known among the English Speaking Indians ( Not necessarily English reading) as she wrote in an Indian language, Hindi. Though she was proficient in Gujarati, Bengali Urdu, English and Sanskrit, she chose to write in Hindi. It’s matriarchs all the way in the families of Pants, Pandes and Joshis of Kumaon. These ladies are all manifestations of Shakti and Kali rather than the docile Gauri.

The story “Things to leave Behind” centers around two strong ladies Tillotama aka Tilli and her daughter  Deoki alias Diana. What powerful personalities  they depict , particularly so when considering that the story is  set in the backdrop of Orthodox brahmin families in the middle of 19th century.

As a historical fiction, main events in history including the many natural disasters are interwoven with the story of Tilli. It was also the tumultuous period in history , when the first battle of Independence took place . Though the British were rulers , there were some who were born and raised in India and became more Indians than Indians, like Jim Corbett .

The author highlights the extreme levels the Kumaoni brahmins go to,  in their efforts to avoid pollution and for purification. There are  frequent references to the “written in stone ” rules for cooking and washing. Only a brahmin lady in a single un-stitched garment is allowed to enter a kitchen.  Chhyodha (a mixture of ganga jal- water from river Ganges and gaumiyam – cow urine) is kept at the entrance of the house , so that the men folk who have to interact with public could purify themselves before entering the house.

There are many foreigners in the story, that includes British and American evangelists / administrators and a  free spirited , effervescent American painter,  Dempster who develops an instant liking for Deoki.

The relation between Dempster and Deoki is described in such a  natural and poignant manner, that there is no hint of a sin which is a feature central to any Orthodox way of thinking.

All in all , the women of Kumaon, come out to be more liberal and natural in their thinking despite their sticking on to many of the centuries old traditions. On the contrary, the foreigners are firmly bound by the Victorian morals . They just  have an option of total acceptance or total rejection. No wonder, the Indians’ tolerance for ambiguity would make a westerner totally confused. They often dismiss it  as hypocrisy, which it may not be.

The central character Tilottama, educates herself after marriage. She even  learns English by reading Almora Annals a broadsheet newsletter published by the Cantonment Press.

She refuses to  be intimidated by the local customs nor the imported culture of the West. As a young girl, she adds new motifs to a traditional wedding Pichora . Where you had only spiritual symbols like swastik and Ohm, she adds books and pens indicating her love for books.

As a mother, when she finds that her son in law had converted to Christianity, she responds in her eccentric best . I quote from the book…

You are a christian , so is she , now. You see before you Deoki Diana….

In an impromptu and ragged ceremony, put together from her readings of Pandita Ramabai, Tilottama had taken a copy of the Holy Bible from her ever expanding library and thwacked Deoki on the head with it. ‘I now pronounce thee Deoki Diana,’ She had announced in a grave English voice ,’Rest in Peace!’    

The book has the  sights,sounds  and smells of Kumaon, Nepal  and the old Bombay all through, making it an interesting read.

Having read the book , I had to go  back to Diddi by Ira Pande which I had read long back and bought “Mountain Echoes” by Namita Pant that I had not come across before.

On reading all three one comes across the amazing overlap between real characters and fictional ones and often one finds that, to fall back on the much used cliche  ” Truth , indeed is stranger than fiction”. True liberals and true feminists indeed. True stories with some embellishments , are richer in emotional and intellectual appeal , and definitely more inspiring to negotiate  the day to day issues  in life.

Work – Life Balance

Alert:  Please Don’t take  me too seriously.. just asking .. What is work-life balance ? Are work and life mutually exclusive ? Do people stop living while working or is it that suddenly they get a life when they stop working ? If that be so , why work at all ? Is work only … Continue reading “Work – Life Balance”

Alert:  Please Don’t take  me too seriously.. just asking ..

What is work-life balance ?

Are work and life mutually exclusive ? Do people stop living while working or is it that suddenly they get a life when they stop working ? If that be so , why work at all ? Is work only for paying the bills or is work mandatory for well being an individual? If it is mandatory for well being , why not call it life as well ?

What is me-time ? Does it mean the periods other than me-time are spent for someone else ? What if that someone else is dearer to you than yourself? Does a mother or for that matter father, spending time for his child come under me-time or child-time ? and of course the next question would be “which is the better spent time ?”

When a person is more at home at work place than he or she is at home , where does she/he have a ‘life ‘ ? at work place or at home ?

Maintaining relationships can be very stressful many a time ; why not bring it under ‘work’ ?

Can life be at work-place and work be at home ?

Why else, people have stuff like working lunch at nice restaurants and conferences at holiday resorts ?

A philosopher would say ‘What is office but escape from home and what is home but escape from office ?’

May be all mandatory activities, irrespective of whether it is at work-place, home or elsewhere  could simply be categorized as life draining activities and life rejuvenating activities , say LDA and LRA and they could be set to a desired ratio to balance ?!

Or would it be better to say  ‘ battery draining’ ,’battery neutral’ and ‘battery charging ‘ ? Writing such thing is battery charging for me ,hope it is so for reading also.